Lisbon's gastronomic landscape continues to evolve at a breakneck pace. This week, we explore a new sibling on Avenida da Liberdade, a time-honored bastion of traditional cuisine in Bairro Alto, and a revamped hype tavern in Mouraria.
After Cascais, Carolina Sobral discovered Bougain's Lisbon garden, a discreet spot in the Valverde hotel. Whether it's an oasis in the city's heart or a headache for allergy sufferers (pollen warning), it offers garlic shrimp, cured lily, and citrus-infused carabineiro rice. New additions include grilled red mullet, truffle puree-aged ribeye, and Provençal lamb chops.
For digestion, a walk to Largo de São Cristóvão leads to Velho Eurico. After six months of renovations, this popular spot remains a challenge to get into, but the experience is now more "polished," even among pregos and battered fish with all the trimmings.
When all else fails, a classic is a classic, and Alfaia has stood the test of time. Our Implacable Experimenter notes, "Like almost everything in Portugal, it's good, honest, and nearly excellent. But it doesn't want to be." And maybe that's okay.
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