Talego: Discover Lisbon's Hidden Gem for Authentic Alentejo Cuisine at Unbeatable Prices

The Portuguese language is becoming quite complex. I ponder this while waiting for a table at Talego—proclaimed as the best Alentejo tavern in Lisbon. After a 15-minute wait, I engage with news. A football coach discusses the team's defensive failures after a game where they conceded four goals. Meanwhile, reporters interview shoppers at a supermarket about their New Year's Eve menu. We live in times of aversion to simple words.

Fortunately, I finally have a table, and today’s special is cozido de grão.

The Menu

Talego is a lunch-only restaurant located near Amoreiras, offering menus at Mértola prices. The name comes from taleigo, a southern term for a long bag made of fabric scraps, used for carrying food. In the past, it was also a measure: 1 talego = 2 alqueires = about 30 liters. This leads to another wonderfully Alentejo expression: talegada, meaning a generous portion of food.

I surrender before I see the bottom of the pot. A delicious talegada of tender chickpeas, bacon, sausages, and ribs, all fragrant with mint. The total is €12.40, which includes couvert, soup, wine, and dessert. It’s my second-best deal of 2024, just behind a summer meal that cost €11.90.

The Leisurely Pace

The leisurely pace is perhaps the greatest secret of Alentejo cuisine, an ingredient that remains when others are lacking. At Talego, everything seems made with care, not haste. It’s common to see tables turning three times; dozens of lunches are served daily, which is the soul of the establishment. The seven dishes on today’s menu include four from the pot, two from the oven, and one from the frying pan. This indicates many hours were spent preparing for these few minutes of service.

The service is equally unhurried. There are no frantic waiters or chaotic movements. Customers are treated like friends, with attentive service and a light-hearted atmosphere. Even with a long queue, the wait is a maximum of 15 minutes.

Daily Specials

Every day, the menu changes, offering a variety of dishes. Impeccable shark soup with fried bread, flavorful fish, and a rich broth without any noticeable flour. Delicious black pork cheeks, tender meat interspersed with fat, showcasing hours of slow cooking. Noteworthy dishes include lamb stew with mint, oven-baked rabbit with rosemary, and peas with ribs and sausages. Just recalling these makes me hungry.

The dessert options also feature a handful of choices. Today, I opt for divine sweet migas. Recently introduced to the menu, the cook recites the recipe, emphasizing the time it takes to prepare.

The Last Word

I borrow another word: escapariz. I learned it from my Alentejo aunt, who used it to describe any dish she found acceptable, or even good but not made by her. It perfectly captures a dish that almost passes muster. I use it to critique the couvert; I expected better olives and bread that, while decent, suffers from the industrial malaise affecting Alentejo bread.

I know several excellent Alentejo restaurants in the city and surrounding areas, but I rarely leave any of them for less than €30 per person. The next time I visit Talego, in January, I discover the menu has risen to €12.90, indicating an inflation rate of about 8% annually in the Amoreiras area. Still, I doubt I’ll find a better deal in 2025.

I’ll be back, time and time again.

Address: Rua Prof. Sousa da Câmara 147, Lisbon. Phone: 21 139 3122. Open Monday to Saturday, 12 PM to 3 PM.

Arnaldo Valente is a man of his word and only hides his face because he needs it to shave. He tends to ignore trends, is not overly sensitive to sensitivities, enjoys trivialities, and insists on playing with serious matters. He only speaks about what he experiences, although he cannot share everything he has tried.